From a tiny basement in the village of Saint-Maurice-ès-Allier in Auvergne, Benoit Rosenberger has made a name for himself as one to watch in this most exciting of regions.

Born in Sancerre, Benoit worked as a computer programmer and at a large Champagne house, an experience that left him disenchanted with wine. However, a move to the Auvergne and chance meetings with local vignerons such as good friend Frédéric Gounan convinced him to start over again, this time doing things his own way, the only way that felt right.

He farms just three hectares of Gamay d’Auvergne from 50-80 year old vines split across small parcels on rolling hills some 350-500 metres above sea level. The vines are tended by hand and Benoit eschews the use of chemicals, using teas and infusions such as dandelion, nettle and pine to care for the plants. The soil is predominantly basalt, which along with volcanic sand and granite, makes for lithe, fragrant wines that shimmer with minerals.

In the cellar, Benoit is uncompromising in his approach. There are no additions made at any stage and the wines are only bottled after a proper élevage, something he feels is vital when making wines in this way.

RAT DE CAVE

2020

From old vines of Gamay d’Auvergne planted across tiny parcels of volcanic basalt and quartz, Benoit felt this vintage was so different in spirit to previous years, that he changed the name from Loup des Vignes. The grapes were fermented as whole bunches for three weeks, before pressing to cuve and old barrels for eighteen months of rest.From a warm, dry vintage this is darker, deeper and more brooding than previous years, with the kind of material and balance that suggests it will reward drinkers for many years to come.